Walk-in cooler kits, shipped flat and complete

What comes in a walk-in cooler kit

A kit is the whole walk-in, designed as one piece, not a pile of insulation.

Every part below is drawn on your approval drawing, so you can check it before your order goes in. Freezer kits add the parts a sub-freezing box needs.

• Wall panels. 4 inch insulated panels, 2009 EISA compliant, with 26 gauge stucco-embossed Acrylume skins inside and out. Tongue-and-groove edges, no wood perimeter, NSF Listed.
• Corner panels. A dedicated 4 1/2 inch corner panel at every outside corner, with a female routed edge that receives the incoming wall panel.
• Ceiling panels. They lock to the walls and to each other with the same cam locks. Roof suspension hardware is included when the span needs support (you supply the cables or threaded rod).
• Floor or screed. Freezers always include insulated floor panels with a heavy gauge smooth aluminum interior and a cove. Coolers get either that floor or 4 inch U-shape vinyl screed to secure the walls to your slab.
• Door and frame. A 34 x 76 inch flush door in a reinforced frame with a perimeter magnetic gasket, two self-closing hinges, entry latch handle with key lock, inside safety release, automatic door closer and a 12 inch diamond kick plate.
• Light and readout. LED vapor-proof light, digital pilot light switch and digital thermometer at the door.
• Refrigeration (standard packages). A condensing unit (remote indoor, remote outdoor or self-contained) with a matched evaporator, R-448A or R-454A. An adjustable thermostat is included, and coolers use an air-defrost evaporator.
• Freezer additions. Electric-defrost evaporator, solenoid valve and defrost timer, a 115 V perimeter heater wire in the door and frame so it does not ice up, and a 115 V pressure relief vent.
• Joining hardware. Cam locks built into the panel edges, joint gaskets, and plastic plug caps to close the wrench holes.

What the kit does not replace is the licensed work on site: wiring to your electrical panel and, on a remote split system, running, evacuating and charging the line set.

Buying walk-in panels on their own

Some buyers want cooler panels rather than a whole kit: to add a section, replace a damaged wall, or enclose an existing room. Yes, we quote panels on their own, including replacement and extension panels.

One thing to know before you shop for loose panels: panels from different manufacturers usually do not lock together. The routed edges, panel thickness and cam-lock positions differ, so a new panel rarely seals against an old one. If you are matching an existing box, measure the panel thickness and height and send photos of a joint and a cam-lock hole.

If you are building a room from scratch, a full kit is usually the better path, because the corners, ceiling and door frame are drawn together and the refrigeration is matched to the box. If what you need is a door and not a wall, see our replacement doors page for plug doors, sliding doors and wide doors.

Custom kits built to your dimensions

Panels are made to your measurements, so a custom kit can take almost any footprint. Heights of 8'0", 8'6", 9'0", 10'0" and 12'0" are quoted regularly. L-shapes, low ceilings and boxes built around a column are normal work.

• Combinations. A cooler and freezer side by side sharing a wall. See combination cooler freezer.
• Glass doors. Heated three-pane glass doors (24 x 79 and 30 x 79 inch are common) for display walk-ins and beer caves. See display glass door walk-ins.
• Wider entries. 48 x 76 and 60 x 76 inch doors or manual sliding doors, because a 34 inch door will not pass a 48 x 40 inch pallet.
• Outdoor boxes. A rain roof and outdoor refrigeration. See indoor vs outdoor.
• Skins and floors. White galvanized or stainless steel skins can be quoted; diamond tread plate or 3/4 inch marine plywood reinforced floors for heavy loads.

Before anything is cut you get a dimensioned approval drawing: plan and elevation, with the evaporator and doors called out. You can see real examples in our approval drawings, and compare the full system lineup in the refrigeration equipment gallery. If you are torn between a standard package and a custom box, read kit vs custom.

Getting the kit into the building

1. Measure the route. Panels ship flat, so the real limit is the path to the room: measure your narrowest doorway, the tightest hallway turn and the lowest ceiling obstruction. Wall panels are no more than 47 inches wide, but floor and ceiling panels can be much longer, so check the length of the path too.
2. Check the room. A cooler without a floor needs a level slab. Leave clearance for the refrigeration and for airflow, and remember the evaporator hangs from the ceiling. The floor or no floor guide helps you decide.
3. Receive it. Free shipping on every walk-in we quote. Panels ship stacked flat and shrink-wrapped. Delivery is to a commercial address. Shipping does not include a lift gate or a residential delivery unless your quote says so, so tell us about your site when you ask for the quote. See how shipping works.
4. Assemble the box. Set the floor or screed, stand the corner panels, slide each male edge into a female edge and turn the cam locks clockwise with an Allen wrench. Add the ceiling, then cap the holes. The installation guide goes step by step.
5. Connect power and refrigeration. A self-contained unit is close to plug-and-play. A remote split needs a refrigeration contractor to run, evacuate and charge the line set.

Island buyers get free shipping to their freight forwarder, with duties paid on arrival and 60 Hz or 50 Hz refrigeration quoted. See our Caribbean page. Ready for a number? Request your kit quote.